At 7.15am we catch a rattle-trap bus bound for Dali. The trip takes six and a half hours, with a half-hour break for lunch, during which we eat some delicious spicy food in a small shack beside the road. We pass the time chatting to a Belgian couple and dozing. The bus is full of locals for a start, but empties out along the way. At Dali, we check into the Sunny Garden Hotel.