Monday, September 26th – GILGIT.
After a refreshing cold shower, I sit out on the grassy courtyard of the hotel drinking tea and reading. For … Continue reading Monday, September 26th – GILGIT.
After a refreshing cold shower, I sit out on the grassy courtyard of the hotel drinking tea and reading. For … Continue reading Monday, September 26th – GILGIT.
Besham comes to life as we sit in a sidewalk chai shop waiting for our minibus to fill up. Beneath … Continue reading Sunday, September 25th – BESHAM TO GILGIT.
The mighty gorge of the Lower Indus is just as we remember it, although now, in late summer, the crops … Continue reading Friday, September 23rd – ‘PINDI TO BESHAM.
Rawalpindi is hot and dirty. We don’t waste much time outside, preferring to hide ourselves away, along with several other … Continue reading Thursday, September 22nd.
The route from Lahore to Pindi lies along Sher Shar’s Grand Trunk Road, a two-lane highway lined with gum trees … Continue reading Wednesday, September 21st – CITYLINKERS BUS FROM LAHORE TO RAWALPINDI.
After a sound, albeit short sleep, we are back out on Lahore’s streets at 8:00 AM. We walk up to … Continue reading Sunday, September 19th – LAHORE
NB: The timeline of today’s entry jumps back and forth. Asterisks denote where flashbacks begin and end. We allow ourselves … Continue reading Friday, September 18th.
Quetta’s air is full of smoke, much of it from the exhaust of the thousands of gaily-painted cycle rickshaws that … Continue reading Thursday, September 17th.
Again, we are up early. I have a quick shower and the water is very hot. We have to wake … Continue reading Monday, September 16th – THROUGH THE BARRICADES. A BUS BOUND FOR QUETTA FROM THE BORDER, 4:30 PM.
The eastern sky is a deep orange overlaid with indigo and black as we shoulder our packs and begin walking … Continue reading September 15th – THE CLOSING DOOR.