TUESDAY 3 DECEMBER – FRIDAY 6 DECEMBER There wasn’t much to do at Cape McLear except swim and sit round at the bar. The high point of the few days we were there was a game of touch rugby a bunch of us played one evening on the beach.¹ 

We left on Friday morning for Lilongwe after catching a ride out from Cape McLear to Monkey Bay on Thursday morning. We teamed up with a couple of kiwi guys, Nick Sharp and Steve Hege to travel for the next few days, and spent most of Thursday drinking piss in the Monkey Bay Club and playing darts. 

The bus took 9 hours to go the 120km to Lilongwe, and when we got there Linda and I went up and camped at the golf club, while Steve and Nick stayed at the Government Rest House. 

During the night we were invaded by ants and Linda’s side of the tent was crawling with them. They were in her hair and all through her pack. 

¹ That game of touch rugby, as it turned out, would have some quite serious health consequences for me in the coming months. I was tackled by someone during the game and grazed my knee on the sand. Later on, when we were swimming in the lake a parasitic worm called bilharzia invaded the cut and lodged itself somewhere in my body. When we eventually returned New Zealand in the middle of 1992, I was diagnosed with an infection caused by the bilharzia worm, and had to undergo a course of extremely expensive medication in order to rid myself of this souvenir of Lake Malawi.

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