HELL RIDE TO BESHAM We caught the 9 a.m. N.A.T.C.O bus from the Gilgit bus station and suffered through 10 hours of the most dangerous driving I’ve ever had to endure.

Rain, snow, rockslides, fog, and some bizarrely crazy driving combined to make the trip a prolonged adrenaline rush.

By the time we reached Besham, we were worn out by being constantly shocked by near-misses involving other vehicles and sheer drops to the sullen, serpentine Indus. We ate a meal of beef curry, dahl and naan bread, then retired to bed with the rain continuing to pour.

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