FRIDAY 29 NOVEMBER  Kath and I made a trip over to Mzuzu to the bank. We left camp at 6 a.m. and walked over to Nakata Bay township then sat around on the grass waiting for the bus. No bus turned up, but eventually, a battered minibus came along so we caught that in the trip to Mzuzu took about an hour.

At the bank, I changed £40 worth of traveller’s checks and then we walked with a couple of German travellers up to one of the local restaurants where we had a slap-up feed of sausage and chips, washed down with coffee. I also ordered the steak sandwich and the waitress forgot to charge me for it. The German guy bought my excess Tanzanian shillings for US$3. 

Kath and I spent an hour or so looking around the market and shops, then set off to hitch a ride back to the bay as there didn’t appear to be any buses going. We walked out of town then a bus came along so we flagged it down, and an hour and a half later we were back at Nkhata bay. 

Later on, back at camp, Linda and I bought a carved warrior from one of the salesmen who come around every day selling ebony carvings, bangles and other trinkets. We paid 27 kwacha (about £6) for a beautiful carving of a Malawian warrior.

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