SATURDAY: The carving salesman came back so we could take his photo and Linda swapped her Walkman for a pair of carved heads. We hung around at the camp all morning, then packed up and walked over to the Nkatha Bay town to wait for the ferry that we planned to take down the lake to Monkey Bay.
It arrived at 4 p.m. and I queued up to buy our tickets. When the gate guard spotted me waiting, he pulled me up to the head of the queue!
We boarded at 6:30 and staked our claim on a piece of the second class deck. The ferry sailed at 7:30, and by the time it left there were about 15 backpackers spread about on the steel plates of the after-deck. It was nice sleeping under the stars as the boat headed south down Lake Malawi.