LUSAKA TO HARARE Herman gave us a ride out to the edge of town and we only had to wait for half an hour before a bloke gave us a ride in the back of an old ex-army armoured car. The ride cost us ZK250 each but we had money to get rid of so we took it. The border was a breeze, our currency declarations not even looked at, and we stashed a lot of money as we walked across the bridge spanning the Zambezi River.
The Zimbabwean customs officials were polite and efficient, but no one asked us to prove how much money we had declared. One of the immigration officials jacked us up a ride in an air-conditioned Toyota Landcruiser for Zimbabwe $25 each and we made the 380 km trip to Harare in 3 1/2 hours. On the way, we saw a pair of elephants walk leisurely across the road in front of us and amble off into the bush.
It was raining lightly when we reached Harare about 4:30 p.m. and we walked up to Sable Lodge. It was just like the backpackers we were remembered in Australia: full of a varied mixture of backpackers, a good bar, pool table, and dormitories crammed full. We changed money with a Russian guy, then went on the rampage at a nearby restaurant where we ate the largest and tastiest steaks we have ever seen.